(if it is necessary to replace the gimbal component on which this motor is located). Theoretically, there is an easier way to remove the motor along with the electronics - by knocking the motor shaft out of the bearing, but nevertheless it is troublesome, because at this point the frame of the gimbal is very fragile and there is no good possibility of a point impact on the motor shaft (after removing the lock pin) and knocking the shaft out of the motor bearing.ĥ) The second motor which rotates the frame with the camera module should also be peeled from the ring holder located on the L-shaped arm The glue can be heated a bit with a hairdryer, a rather time-consuming process, but I managed after about 30 minutes to separate the motor without damaging the structure of the gimbal. ![]() This motor, along with the electronics, can be removed, in my opinion, only by very gently sliding it out of the gimbal body (the shiny part of the motor is glued into the round ring). Dont wash off the glue residue.Ĥ) This stage is the most difficult: we need to peel the motor (I mean the motor located behind the camera if you are looking at the camera from the front) from the body of the gimbal). Do not remove the flex completely from the gimball - being careful not to break it. The way to repair the gimbal is as follows:ġ) Remove the camera module from the damaged gimbal (after removing the white camera body) - the camera module is attached to the frame with 3 screws, this module will be installed in the new gimbal frame,Ģ) Remove the two plastic cable covers (each of them is fixed with one screw), then dettach the plugs of the power strip for the motor modules,ģ) The next step is quite difficult: very carefully peel off the gimbal flex - it should be done very gently (personally, I advise against heated, but you can moisten a little with isopropyl alcohol the flex itself - this should make it easier to peel the flex from the motor body). This is untrue - the passive components (resistors, capacitors, etc.) visible on the top of the motor boards are only part of all the motor electronics, which are located on the bottom of the board: Regarding the last point : I found information that the motor power modules in the gimbal do not have components capable of storing the motherboard key. Replacing just the camera module alone will result in a camera view, but will fail to calibrate the gimbal. In my drone all elecotronic parts (motherboard, ESC, camera module, gimbal two motor electronics are from originaly mounted parts - so they are original part from my drone, only gimbal frame and flex are exchanged. ![]() ![]() Unfortunately, repositioning such an assembly to the drone is not possible because:ġ) the camera module is paired with the drone's motherboard,Ģ) each of the modules powering the motors in the gimbal is also paired with the drone's board. ![]() In addition, the tape connecting the gimbal to the ESC board (a vertically mounted board in the compartment behind the gimbal and camera assembly) was broken.Ī complete camera and gimbal assembly was purchased by me to make the repair possible. In my drone, the gimbal was mechanically damaged (broken L arm) and the main arm was damaged. There is a great deal of conflicting or even confusing information on the Internet regarding whether such a replacement is possible. Yesterday I made a successful replacement of the gimbal in the Parrot Anafi drone, so I decided to share my experience with other users of this drone.
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